Western White Mountain Chamber

Basecamp of the White Mountains in New Hampshire

white mountain history

The Legacy of the Old Man of the Mountain

 

Everywhere you look in New Hampshire, you’ll see one of the Granite State’s iconic landmarks – the Old Man of the Mountain. It’s featured on the New Hampshire license plate, road signs, and even the state quarter! But how did the Old Man of the Mountain become part of New Hampshire’s legacy and what happened to him?

Old_Man_of_the_Mountains_by_moonlight

The Birth of the Old Man of the Mountain

Located in Franconia Notch, the Old Man of the Mountain is also known as the “Great Stone Face” by the Abenaki and “the Profile.” To understand where he came from, we have to go back thousands of years to the Wisconsin glaciation and the ice age. For centuries, glaciers over a mile thick covered New England. When the temperatures began to warm, the ice started a thawing and freezing cycle that created erosion in the granite bedrock that shaped the unique features of the Old Man of the Mountain. The Old Man overlooked Profile Lake from 1,200 feet above and was approximately 40 feet tall and 25 feet wide.

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The Life of the Old Man of the Mountain

The Old Man of the Mountain was first discovered and written about by white settlers in 1805 when Francis Whitcomb and Luke Brooks were surveying the area for the Notch road. While farmers frequently traveled over the road to the markets in Boston, no one had seen the Old Man due to the dense underbrush. Luke Brooks woke up in camp early one morning and went to Profile Lake to gather water for breakfast and saw the reflection of the granite face of the Old Man in the lake.

Of course, the legacy of the Old Man of the Mountain predates white settlers by hundreds of years. Known as Stone Face, the Abenaki believe that a human named Nis Kizos was born during an eclipse. He became a great leader and met a beautiful Iroquois woman named Tarlo at a Kchi Mahadan and fell in love. Tarlo had to return to her village to care for her sickened family and Nis Kizos promised he would live at the top of the mountain waiting for her. Tarlo waited day and night for her through the winter, but unfortunately, Tarlo dies in her birth village from the sickness. Gezosa, Nis Kizos’s brother, went to retrieve Nis Kizos in the spring but he was nowhere to be found. As Gezosa was descending the mountain, he looked back and saw that Nis Kisoz became part of the mountain as a stone face to continue looking for his love.

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The Old Man of the Mountain became famous across the country because of Daniel Webster who famously wrote: “Men hand out their signs indicative of their respective trades; shoemakers hang out a gigantic shoe; jewelers a monster watch; and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but up in the Mountains of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there He makes men.”

Even Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote about the Old Man in his 1850 “The Great Stone Face.” In 1869, President Ulysses S. Grant visited the Old Man. Over the decades the stone formation began to deteriorate. Governor Rolland H. Spaulding began efforts to preserve the Old Man in 1916. In 1945, the Old Man became the official New Hampshire State Emblem and in 1965, a state highway worker named Niels F.F. Nielsen, Jr. became the unofficial guardian of the Old Man of the Mountain. He became the official caretaker in 1987 followed by his son, David Nielsen, in 1991.

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The Fall of the Old Man of the Mountain

Over the years, the harsh White Mountains weather started to damage the rock formation. In the 1920s, a crack in the Old Man’s forehead was repaired with chains. In 1957, more extensive “surgery” was conducted on the Old Man to save his iconic granite face. Despite many years of repairs, the Old Man of the Mountain collapsed between midnight and 2:00 am on May 3, 2003, leaving the residents of the Granite State to mourn its most iconic symbol.

Despite the loss of the Old Man of the Mountain, its legacy lives on in the White Mountains. On the first anniversary of the collapse, the Old Man of the Mountain Legacy Fund (OMMLF) installed coin-operated viewfinders near the base where you can see before and after of how the Old Man of the Mountain used to appear. OMMLF completed the Old Man of the Mountain Memorial along the Profile Lake walkway in September 2020 so the Old Man’s legacy could live on forever for future generations to enjoy.

20 Years Since the Fall

May 3rd, 2023 marked 20 years since the fall of the Old Man of the Mountain. While the “Great Stone Face” will never be the same, it seems that the iconic site still holds a special place in visitor’s hearts.

Museum and Historic Site

Today you can visit the Old Man of the Mountain museum and historic site in Franconia Notch State Park. Take Exit 34B off I-93, drive towards Cannon Mountain and then follow the signs. At the museum you’ll discover historic memorabilia and photos about the care, repair and promotion of the state’s official symbol. The museum is open May through late October and admission is free. At the Profiler Plaza historic site you will experience the interactive sculpture that allows you to “see” what the Old Man of the Mountain looked like. There are also several informational plaques located along the trail with history of the mountain and species that were found in the area.

For state-wide information, head to VisitNH.gov

visitnh.gov

The History and Bright Future of the Hobo Railroad

hobo railroad

Have you heard about the Hobo Railroad? It’s celebrating its 35th year! This incredibly popular attraction is a one-of-a-kind train experience that you can have during spring, summer, fall, and winter right in the beautiful White Mountains region. 

In honor of its anniversary, we sat down with Jennifer Franz to learn all about it.

hobo railroad

The Beginning of the Hobo Railroad

The track that is currently utilized by the Hobo Railroad dates back to the 1800’s. At that time it was owned by the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad. 

Franz says, “It was used as one of the primary routes north for tourists making their way from cities like Boston, Hartford, and New York to the pristine lakes and mountains of northern New Hampshire as well as to points further north including the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont and Montreal, Canada.”

She continues, “In the early 1900’s the rights to the rail line were sold to the Boston and Maine Railroad who kept the line active between the Lakes Region and Lincoln, New Hampshire in support of the paper mills and other businesses that depended on passenger and freight service.”

However, the passenger service level dwindled with the rise of automobiles and the creation of highways in the 1950s, and by the 1970s when the paper mills closed, freight service was no longer needed and shut down completely. At that point, the rail line was purchased by the State of New Hampshire and eventually offered for lease.

The railroad lease opportunity was music to Ed and Brenda Clark’s ears! In the 1980s the couple reached an agreement with the State of New Hampshire and created the Hobo Railroad, which opened in Lincoln, New Hampshire on June 15, 1987. 

Franz says, “The Clarks have continued to operate and grow the railroad operation successfully for the past 35 years. Brenda, Ben, and Jennifer share the responsibilities of daily operations. The economic development of this area was completely due to the development of the rail line.”

The Past and Present

Many have ridden the rails over the years and it may interest new riders to know that back in 1987 a ticket cost just $5! Today, the costs are still very affordable. Adult tickets are $22, child tickets are $17, and toddlers (age three and under) are absolutely free.

Other changes include the addition of two other locations in the Lakes Region and a fourth location called Rail Bike Adventures.  

While some things like costs and locations have changed, much hasn’t. Franz says, “We pride ourselves in keeping with a traditional, vintage railroad experience.” 

hobo railroad

Vintage Charm

The Hobo Railroad uses restored vintage coaches to take passengers around the area. The first four cars did some traveling on their own all the way from Hoboken, New Jersey! Then other 1950s MBTA cars from Boston, Massachusetts joined the team. 

Franz says, “All the cars were restored on property in Lincoln, New Hampshire by the Clark family and their employees.”

hobo railroad

So Much to See

Have you heard the song “Over the River and Through the Woods”? Well, that’s essentially the route that the Hobo Railroad runs. Riders are taken quite literally over the Pemigewasset River and through the stunning woods. 

“Along the way, passengers can expect to see trees, the river, and if you’re lucky, the wildlife in the area,” says Franz. 

But there’s more! Franz continues, “You also get glimpses of the mountains, wildlife, campers, kayakers, and canoers.”

There’s a lot to see and each season offers something new and special.

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Train Experiences by Season

The Hobo Railroad operates from late May through October and again from Thanksgiving through mid-December. We recommend you come back during each season because there are advantages to each. 

The season of renewal is all about fresh sights. Franz explains, “Passengers get a ride through the forest and watch as the trees and plants emerge from their winter slumber. In the spring the wildlife becomes more active, especially the birds.”

While in spring the Railroad sticks to weekends only, summer really heats up with seven-day service and Nature by Rail on select Thursdays throughout the season. 

“Passengers will see the trees and flowers in full bloom. Many people are out fishing, tubing, or kayaking in the river. People enjoy camping along the riverbed. In the summer, the wildlife you may see includes birds, deer, turkey, and bear,” says Franz. 

Unsurprisingly, fall is a favorite time to ride the rails! The foliage views in New Hampshire are legendary and the Hobo Railroad offers a whole new vantage point. 

Franz says, “The fall foliage season allows passengers to see the changing of the leaves. In the White Mountains of New Hampshire, the foliage colors are vibrant reds, oranges, yellows, and greens.”

As the temperatures get lower, the Hobo Railroad begins to offer a special kind of winter magic. Franz explains, “During the winter, passengers watch as the river freezes over, the mountains become snowcapped, and we begin to get light dustings of snow.” 

And as winter moves toward the holidays, there’s even more fun to be had. Franz says, “During late November-December, we run our Santa Express trains (weekends only) which offer a unique experience to visit with Santa and enjoy some good old-fashioned family time. At the beginning of the ride, elves go through the cars and hand out letters to Santa. On the ride back towards the station, Santa goes through the cars and hands out gifts to each child, and collects the letters to bring to the North Pole. After the ride is over, there is a family photo opportunity with Santa.” 

hobo railroad

A Perfect Souvenir 

If you want to bring home a piece of the train ride, there’s no better place to get one than the Hobo Railroad’s very own gift shop. Franz says, “Some of the most popular items in the gift shop include: die-cast toy trains, hand-blown glass Christmas ornaments, and sweatshirts/t-shirts.”

Be a Part of the Hobo Railroad’s Future 

Customers can’t get enough of the Hobo Railroad. Franz says, “We have many repeat customers. We have generations of families who come back to visit us.” 

Whether you’re a first-time rider in this, the 35th season, or a seasoned one from 1987, we hope you’ll join the Clarks starting on Memorial Day Weekend 2023. 

For state-wide information, head to VisitNH.gov

visitnh.gov

An Indoor Winter Adventure: The New England Ski Museum

new england ski museum

During the wintertime, there are many outdoor activities to take advantage of in the White Mountains region. While many of us would like to be outside racing down the slopes or tramping across the woodland trails for hours, there are some times when it’s pleasant to spend part of your day indoors. Located at the base of the Cannon Mountain tram is a special treasure worth putting into your Franconia Notch itinerary – The New England Ski Museum! 

The New England Ski Museum debuted in 1982 and has since become a staple for locals and tourists alike. Let’s take a look at all the exciting details. 

Exhibitions

The permanent exhibition that the museum maintains is called “From the First Tracks to the Fall Line: eight thousand years of skiing.” This collection showcases events that have happened in the ski world dating back to prehistoric times but also houses important “firsts” on Cannon Mountain and details on the career of Bode Miller (he’s a local!). 

In addition to the permanent exhibition, there’s an annual show called “Ski Photographers of the White Mountains” that features work from photographers Winston Pote, Christine Reid, Dorothy Crossley, and Dick Smith that were produced from the 1920s through the 1970s. 

Together, the photographs cover everything from American mountain soldiers and the social side of skiing to the ski resort life in the post-war years and flyover storm shots. You can learn more about each of the photographic artists here. 

And, while you can spend quite a long time in the museum’s primary location, you can also continue your skiing education by visiting the 4,400 square foot Eastern Slope Branch that they launched in 2018, which has its own exhibitions.

Collections

The New England Ski Museum has assembled its collections of clothing equipment, films, news clippings, books, magazines, papers, photographs, theses, and other items via individual and organization-based donations. The donated collections are available, either via exhibition or by membership-only appointments. Details outlining each collection’s contents are available here. 

new england ski museum

In-Person & Zoom Programs

Even if you can’t make it in person, you can still enjoy the many programs offered by the experts at the museum. Speakers including Jeff Leich, Executive Director emeritus, Jeremy Davis, Board of Directors, and Dr. E. John B. Allen, Board Historian have offered all of the following options at different times:

  • “Before and Beyond the Lifts: Sketches of Backcountry Skiing”
  • “Over The Headwall: The Ski History of Skiing in Tuckerman Ravine”
  • “Tales of the 10th: The Mountain Troops and American Skiing”
  • “Winter Work: The CCC and New England Skiing”
  • “Historical Highlights of Wildcat”
  • “Lost Ski Areas of the White Mountains”
  • “Lost Ski Areas of Southern Vermont”
  • “Lost Ski Areas of the Southern Adirondacks”
  • “Lost Ski Areas of the Northern Adirondacks”
  • “Lost Ski Areas of the Berkshires”
  • “New Hampshire on Skis” (arranged through the NH Humanities Council)
  • “World Wide Military Skiing”
  • “Women on Skis”
  • “The Skiing World of Leni Riefenstahl”
  • “Ski Mountaineering”
  • “Hannes Schneider: Skimeister to the World”

As you can see, there’s really a topic for everyone to enjoy. And you can have one of these talks presented to you for just a $100 museum honorarium. 

Timelines

The New England Ski Museum staff have in-depth knowledge of ski-based historical timelines. Some of them are outlined here, but you can always talk to them in person during your visit to learn more or to ask questions. Timelines are regularly generated to assist in the creation of their exhibitions and contain incredible historical research.

new england ski museum

Membership

If you’re a local or frequent White Mountains region visitor, consider becoming a member of the museum! Membership (which starts at just $35 for an individual) provides you with a subscription to the Journal of New England Ski Museum, a discount in the Museum Shop and online, access to the by-appointment-only collections, and more. 

Events

We know that we said this was an “indoor adventure” blog, but some particularly exciting times can be had during the events they host outdoors. Their collections may be in the building, but you can help the museum thrive by entering these ones too! 

The first event they are offering this year is the 26th Hannes Schneider Meister Cup Race at Cranmore Resort on March 10-12. The event honors Austrian skimeister, Hannes Schneider, but also includes a vintage ski fashion show, music from Bavarian Brothers Band, a ski history documentary film screening, and more. You can learn more and purchase tickets here. 

Their second 2023 event will be their Annual Meeting and Dinner honoring Kelly Brush Davission and The Kelly Brush Davission Foundation. The exact date hasn’t been posted just yet, but check back here soon as details should be posted shortly. new england ski museum

Ready to Visit?

Would you like a sneak peek at some of the items waiting to be discovered? Watch this recent fan-made video that walks you through the museum. 

When you’re ready to venture out in person, the primary Franconia location of the New England Ski Museum is located at 135 Tramway Drive, Franconia, NH 03580, and can be reached by email at [email protected] or by phone at 603-823-7177. Admission is free.

Happy trails! 

For state-wide information, head to VisitNH.gov

visitnh.gov

History of Franconia Notch

Franconia_Notch,_NH_Looking_North

Franconia Notch is one of the most beautiful places in New Hampshire and attracts people from all over the globe every year. To truly understand the unique landscape and its people, you have to step back in time millions of years ago to the Ice Age. 

The Ice Age

Franconia Notch began to form millions of years ago during the Ice Age. The cold temperatures brought very little melting every year leading to the formation of the Laurentide Ice Sheet expanding from Canada into modern day New England. About 12,000 years ago, the ice sheets were over a mile high in most places across the White Mountains. As the ice began to melt and water flowed, Franconia Notch began to form. 

As the Laurentide Ice Sheet moved south through New Hampshire, it would shear off pieces of the granite peaks of the White Mountains ultimately creating the deep valley known as a notch in New England. In many places in Franconia Notch State Park, you can visibly see the scrape marks left behind by the ice sheet on exposed bed rocks or the numerous boulders left behind by the glacier. 

The popular Flume Gorge was also formed by glacial activity during the Ice Age. The Gorge is comprised of Conway granite that was cooled and cracked in parallel lines as the Laurentide Ice Sheet moved. Basalt, a hard, black volcanic rock, forced up from the earth and began crystallizing into rock dikes. As the ice began to melt about 10,000 years ago, rivers began to form, which eroded the basalt creating the Flume Gorge. Mother Nature truly is incredible! 

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The Early Days

Similar to the Lincoln/Woodstock Area, the White Mountains was home to the Abenaki tribes for thousands of years before the European settlers even set foot in the “New World.” The town of Franconia was first granted by Colonial Governor Benning Wentworth in 1764. It was named Franconia after the Franconian Switzerland region of Germany at the time due to its mountainous landscape. 

Franconia started with controversy over its land charter. Governor John Wentworth, Benning’s nephew, regranted the land charter in 1772 as there were claims that the first land grant was not completed in the required time allotment. Franconia developed similar to other towns in the western White Mountains. 

During the 19th century, it became a tourist destination of the wealthy families in Boston, New York, and beyond. Richard Taft and Charles H. Greenleaf purchased the Flume House in 1848 and Lafayette House in 1853, two of the first luxury vacation resorts in the area. In 1853, the White Mountain Railroad finally reached Littleton and connected to other major railroads in Boston, Concord, Montreal, and other major cities on the eastern seaboard. 

Tourism dipped during the Civil War but began booming again in 1870s and the area saw huge growth in tourism, resorts, and other attractions. The Profile House greatly expanded in 1906 to accommodate the newer wealthy middle class. Tourism to the mountain via rail was popular up until the coming of age of affordable automobiles. The historic Profile House was destroyed by a massive fire in 1923 and never rebuilt, but it laid the foundation for Franconia Notch State Park.

The Iron Age

Outside of tourism, Franconia was famous for its iron mines. The first iron works and mines began around 1801 and operated until the 1880s. Nearby Sugar Hill was also known for its iron. There were two iron works in Franconia. The only surviving stone furnace can be seen on Main Street near the Gale River today on private property, but you can see it from nature trails across the river. That stone furnace was owned by New Hampshire Iron Factory Company and became known locally as the “Lower Works.” The Haverhill and Franconia Iron Works was known as the “upper Works.” 

 

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The Birth of Franconia Notch State Park

The birth of state parks in New Hampshire occurred around 1881 with the first state park, Miller State Park, established in 1891. Franconia Notch State Park became an official New Hampshire State Park in 1928. The Flume Gorge is one of the most popular attractions in the park today and was discovered in 1808 by 93-year-old Aunt Jess Guernsey accidentally. During her initial discovery, the was a giant egg-shared boulder suspended between the two walls of the gorge, but a heavy rainstorm washed the boulder away in 1883. That boulder has never been found anywhere. 

old man of the mountain

The Old Man of the Mountain is one of New Hampshire’s most iconic figures being widely featured on the state’s Statehood Quarter, state signs, license plates, and more. The famous natural attraction was a popular tourist attraction for over 200 years before falling down in 2003. Two land surveyors from Franconia, Luke Brooks and Francis Whitcomb, discovered the Old Man of the Mountain in 1805. The legend says the Luke Brooks woke up early one morning and saw the reflection of the granite face in Profile Lake. No one had ever seen it before due to the dense forest in the area. 

The Dawn of the Ski Era

The White Mountains is home to some of the best skiing in the East, and Cannon Mountain is one of the oldest ski areas in New England. The Peckett family in Sugar Hill was trying to develop their small inn into a winter destination resort with a ski school and trails. The Pecketts saw the big potential in Cannon Mountain and worked on developing it as a ski mountain. The Richard Taft Trail became the first established trail in February 1933. In 1938, the construction of North America’s first passenger tramway began after Alexander Bright, a member of the 1933 US Olympic Ski Team, had seen passenger tramways in Europe and saw their potential in the White Mountains. 

cannon mountain tram

Building the tramway was no small feat, but it finally opened on June 28, 1938, after nine months of construction. In its first year, the tramway carried 163,000 passengers to the summit of Cannon Mountain. With the help of the tramway, Cannon Mountain quickly grew over the decades to become a popular ski resort. Significant investments were made in the 1950s to add more trails and lift projects with the help of state funding. Snowmaking came in the late 1960s. Today, Cannon Mountain is New Hampshire’s highest ski mountain and the birthplace of Olympic gold medalist, Bode Miller! 

franconia notch

Franconia Notch is home to millions of years of geological and human history that has shaped the region as we know it today. 

For state-wide information, head to VisitNH.gov

visitnh.gov

History of Lincoln and North Woodstock

A lot of tourists and a few locals commonly think that Lincoln, New Hampshire is named after President Abraham Lincoln, but the town dates back almost 100 years before he became the 16th President of the United States. The town dates back to 1764 when Benning Wentworth, the Royal Governor of The Province of New Hampshire, granted 32,456 acres to a group of 70 investors from Connecticut on behalf of King George III. The town was named after Henry Fiennes Pelham-Clinton, the 2nd Duke of Newcastle, 9th Earl of Lincoln, who was Wentworth’s cousin.

history of lincoln woodstock nh

The Beginning

In 1782, Lincoln finally became a town when Nathan Kinsman and a few other people moved to the area to establish the town. It’s important to note that New Hampshire was home to indigenous people long before European settlers even landed on Plymouth Rock. The Abenaki populated much of New Hampshire, including the White Mountains.

During the 19th century, Lincoln was primarily a tourist destination for the wealthy city-dwellers who wanted to escape the hot city summers for some fresh mountain air. Stephen Russell opened the first hotel just below the Flume in 1808. The new railroad built in 1882 brought thousands of  tourists and several hotels to the area, but it wasn’t until James E. Henry came to Lincoln in 1892 that the town would see real growth.

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The Logging Empire of JE Henry

In 1892, JE Henry, who built the town of Zealand, purchase several thousand acres of virgin timber and moved his logging operations to Lincoln. At the beginning of the 20th century, Henry built and owned almost the whole town – the mill, school, company store, hospital, jail, boarding house, hotel, and most of the houses. He also built the East Branch and Lincoln Railroad, which became the largest logging railroad in New England spanning 72 miles. Construction of the railroad began in 1894 and was built over several years. The last train to run on the rails was in 1948, outliving all the other logging railroads in the region.

For several decades, JE Henry grew his small logging operation into a massive empire of lumbar and paper attracting more and more workers and their families every year and putting Lincoln on the map. JE Henry died in 1912 and his three sons who worked alongside him sold the company and most of the town in 1917 to the Parker Young Company for $3 million (or approximately $64 million in 2021 money).

The Rise of Modern Tourism

The paper mill ran until it was shut down in 1981. Today, much of the local economy is focused on tourism and outdoor recreation. Sharman Adams, who was born and raised in Lincoln, served as a Congressman, two-time New Hampshire governor, and chief of staff to President Dwight D. Eisenhower in the 1950s. Upon his return to his hometown in 1958, he realized the town was struggling and needed a new industry besides the ailing papermill.

A profile outdoorsman, Adams decided to snowshoe up Loon Mountain one day and discovered the mountain would make the perfect ski resort. Construction of Loon Mountain began in the spring of 1966 and opened for the first skiers on December 27, 1966. Five hundred people showed up on opening day to enjoy the 12 trails, two lifts, and one toilet. Over the decades, Loon Mountain has grown into the modern-day ski resort that you know and love. The popularity of Loon Mountain and the White Mountain National Forest has since attracted lots of hotels, vacation rentals, restaurants, and shops.

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The Growth of Neighboring Woodstock

The small neighboring town of Woodstock, New Hampshire has a similar story to Lincoln. Royal Governor Benning Wentworth established the town in 1763 with the name of Fairfield. In the 1790s a group of people from Southern New Hampshire purchased the land rights from the original grantees and divided the land in 231 100-acre lots. The town became known as Peeling.

Farming was not super successful in the town due to its granite mountainous terrain. Logging and tannery became the primary industries in the town, along with maple syrup production. Similar to much of the region, tourism was also popular in the mid-19th century. The town officially became Woodstock in 1840.

north woodstock nh

At the time of the name change, there were four sawmills and logging began to grow fast. Logs cut in the region were floated down the Pemigewasset River into the Merrimack and finally to the sawmills in Lowell, Massachusetts. Hardwoods logged in the region were used to make bobbins for the textile mills in Southern New Hampshire and Massachusetts.

The government began purchasing large land tracts to form the White Mountain National Forest in 1911. Logging stopped in 1915 when the Woodstock Lumber Company went defunct after a huge mill fire in 1913.

For more information and an abundance of old photos about Lincoln and the surrounding area, visit the Upper Pemigewasset Historical Society website.

For state-wide information, head to VisitNH.gov

visitnh.gov